If You Don’t Use Retinol, Can We Still Be Friends?

Let’s set the record straight: If you are not using a retinol or retinoid, you are doing your skin a major disservice. The gold standard for anti-aging and a must-have in nearly every dermatologist’s toolbox, vitamin A-derived retinol and retinoids work wonders for aging skin.

Ever since I boarded the retinol/retinoid train about 14 years ago, I haven’t looked back. I haven’t stopped incorporating vitamin A-derived skincare products into my daily routine, and I can honestly say that diligent use of the ingredient has helped thwart the common signs of aging.

My love affair with retinol and retinoids started as a way to combat adult acne. A trip to my dermatologist’s office rendered me with a prescription first for Tazorac and later, Retin-A. Since then, I’ve flip-flopped between prescription versions and over-the-counter varieties, choosing what I use based upon my skin’s needs at the moment and the season.

Before I divulge my favorite retinol products, it’s essential to understand what retinol and retinoids are, how they work, and how they will improve your skin.

RETINOL VS. RETINOIDS: WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE

No matter if you’re using retinol or a retinoid, the fundamentals of the two are the same: they both employ vitamin A, which instructs the skin to behave in a certain way. The difference between the two, according to Boston dermatologist Ranella Hirsch, MD, is that over-the-counter retinol is weaker in strength and prescription retinoids are much stronger. “In terms of weak to strong, it goes from retinol ester to retinol to retinal and, finally, retinoic acid as defined by the number of conversions to the bioavailable product, which is tretinoin or retinoic acid,” she says.

Retinoids (you may recognize them by their prescription brand names like Tazorac and Retin-A) contain a higher amount of retinoic acid than retinol, and the skin does not need to convert it into retinoic acid. Available only through a prescription that is issued by a doctor, retinoids aren’t an overnight miracle. It can take a few months for the results to be noticeable, and maintenance is essential to keep up the results. Keep in mind that the higher the percentage, the more active and potent the retinoic acid is, which is why it’s best to work your way up and use what your skin can handle.

On the other hand, retinol is the over-the-counter less concentrated version of its retinoid cousin. Retinols are comprised of a smaller molecule. Like retinoids, retinol is also available in varying concentrations.

THE BENEFITS

It helps build collagen to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles: By the time you reach age 20, your skin is naturally losing about 1% collagen per year. Regular use of retinol and/or retinoids helps stimulate the natural production of collagen, in turn leading to thicker, plumper, more elastic skin with fewer lines and wrinkles.
It speeds up cell turnover: With age, the rate at which the skin naturally sheds begins to slow down. The more dead skin that lives on the surface, the harder it is for light to properly reflect, which can make skin look dull. Plus, pores become unclogged of dead skin, which is only one part of the reason for breakouts, and dark spots lighten up as the skin lifts away.
It improves acne: In addition to speeding up skin shedding, vitamin A also helps to reduce sebum (oil) production so that there is less oil in the follicle (oil is part of the reason for pimples). For acne-prone skin, prescriptions are usually deemed more effective.
PREVENT DRYNESS, REDNESS AND PEELING

For as much good as vitamin A does for the skin, it has received somewhat of a bad rap for its unwanted side effects like peeling and dryness. But not every retinol or retinoid will bring about these consequences. The key is to find the right strength and formulation for your skin and allowing your skin to adapt and to practice a buffering (mixture of retinol or retinoid with moisturizer) or ‘sandwich’ technique (apply a layer of moisturizer, retinol or retinoid, and another layer of moisturizer). “Make sure you use gentle moisturizers and nothing occlusive,” advises Dr. Hirsch.

You can always work your way up to stronger concentrations once you know your skin can handle it. Plus, in the beginning, start slow and only use a pea-sized amount once or twice per week.

In all honesty, if you don’t use retinol, I’m not going to write off our friendship. But I want to be a good friend, so get on it and thank me later.